Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi
Good evening,
It’s Monday, and I’m fresh off the most enchanting week. I spend the last 8 days in a lodge by the lake in Limonta with a revolving door of guests, each more peckish than the next, and more eager to help me in the kitchen. 8 mouths to feed. I felt like an overly confused home-chef for a charming writers retreat.
I’ve never worked so closely with volume. The guests at dinner parties I’ve hosted have either been too few in number or too picky in tastebuds. In the beautiful covid fever dream that was my 7-person household living experience, we had more dietary requirements than diners. We always made it work with elaborate side-dishes, edited versions of the main meal on smaller plates, trimmings, garnishes or other appetising accompaniments.
Thank goodness for my wonderful helping hands. Washing dishes, asking for instructions, chopping up feta and mixing salad, kneading dough and whipping frozen icing. We accomplished a whole lot more than I thought we would.
Between meals we visited a gorgeous 18th century lake-front house. We walked to small piers, and up and down the same steep lane for post-meal exercise in the crisp cold. We watched Gilmore Girls while I worked on my Christmas crochet jumper. We played inherited card games on the square table. We struggled with the daily wordle and new yorker crosswords, along with a new favourite I’ve just been introduced to: actorle.com. We marvelled at one another’s niche fonts of knowledge and celebrated the success they brought to our puzzling. We led and attended yoga sessions in the warm patches of sun in the little hill to the right of the house. We jogged to the nearest church and back listening to Evermore. We watched the Long Pond Studio Sessions on the spackled wall, as I continued to figure out the intricacies of my crochet sleeve in the light of the fire, and an extra lamp we had to bring downstairs. We slept under old blankets and woke up to a foggy view of the rows of yellow houses on the opposite side of the lake, and to bottomless conversation sprinkled with the sound of our next-door neighbours Nigel and Paul. Their two bells sounded at perfect moments of the day, and we could hear them bray when we drove up to the street, trotting down to greet us with wide eyes and knocking hooves.
Paul and Nigel the donkeys. Paul named after Paul Child (Stanley Tucci) from Julie and Julia. Nigel named after Nigel (Stanley Tucci) from The Devil Wears Prada.
Before we were eight, we were four. Me and Carlotta, followed by Emma and Ambre, who we picked up in a dark and mildly inaccessible carpark at Lecco station. After a good night’s sleep, they deserved a hearty mountain lunch. The speciality pasta in the area is called: Pizzoccheri. It’s made out of buckwheat flour, that brown stuff that’s in savoury crêpes. Piz means a small piece, and Pinzare kind of means: to crush – and the pasta is kind of small and flat. Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi is a dish with this pasta, potatoes, butter, cabbage, and a mix of mountain cheeses like Valtellina and Fontina. It’s a pasta dish which can be traced back to the 18th century, because people left “scarelle per pizzoccheri” in their wills. Anywho they’re quite a lot nicer than I expected, and quicker to make. We made it with green beans, because I wasn’t too sure about cabbage.
It was exactly what we needed to face the cold and windy Bellagio, which we visited in the afternoon. The fontina was mild, and smoky, so it didn’t feel like eating melted cheese. It had that sort of Raclette quality, but with the freshness of the green bean lightening it up. Overall, I’m proud that I tried this.
If you’re interested in some nice meal ideas for your dinner parties, I made the following:
- Pasta alla Sorrentina
- Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi (with a green bean twist)
- Butternut Squash, Ricotta, and Lemon pie
- Tomato Soup with Grilled Cheeses
- Fresh Gnocchi with Pesto
- Claire Safftiz’s three-layered Chocolate Cake
- My easy take on a Niçoise Salad
- Biscuits (jam filled and shortbread cookies)
